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Friday, 2 December 2016

HOW TO MAKE A Burda BLACK SATIN AND LACE EVENING JACKET

I am making a black satin eveing jacket trimmed with black lace. An evening jacket in a plain colour is a very useful addition to any wardrobe.
The pattern I am using is Burda 8352
It is a lined jacket with no fastening.


I have a piece of black satin back crepe and I am using it satin side out.
I have a small piece of  black galloon lace and another length of a lace edging.
I have no clear plan of how to use the lace, I am just going to experiment and go with whatever I like best.

Looking at the pattern and the pattern pieces there is enough of the galloon lace to have the side fronts in lace and from the trimmings I will be able to cut edge pieces longh enough to go around the sleeve edges. There will be little left!
At this stage I have not decided if I will use the lace edging or not, maybe around the hem? Not sure, that is a decision for later.





Meanwhile I cut out all the pattern pieces including the lining, which is a good quality taffeta. I cut out the side panels in lace too, making sure that the lace was straight and leaving as much of the sides of the lace as possible in case I want it later.


I then machine basted the lace to the satin working from top to bottom and making sure that the lace did not stretch. I then trimmed the lace to the same size as the satin.
At this stage it needs pressing, but please, with satin or lace do use a pressing cloth! You do not want holes or puckering or iron marks, they will ruin the finished garment.

Next, stitch the side fronts to the fronts, clipping the curves. Press gently.



I want to get the sleeves made next. From the lace left overs I cut strips long enough to fit the sleeve edge. Baste them in place close to the edge.


I wanted to add a narrow ruffle to the sleeve edge. Cut strips of satin to double your required width plus seam allowances. I cut mine to around one and a half times the width of the sleeve.
press in half, right sides out and run a gathering thread along the top.


gather evenly to fit and machine carefully in place. Press.


I then overlocked the inside seam to neaten it, and pressed it upwards towards the sleeve top.
Run a row of ease stitches along the top of the sleeve between the markers, you will need those later when it comes to inserting the sleeve into the garment.


That is the sleeves made. Of course you can make yours however you like!




There we will leave it for tonight. This is a garment for special occasions and I do not want to rush it. I hope to have it in my wardrobe for many years!

Wednesday evening.

The first thing I wanted to do tonight was to make the back and join it to the sides. I omitted the back seam,  sewed narrow darts in the back and joined the back to the sides.



Before joining the shoulder seams I cut some of my left over lace and added it to the front shoulders, basting in place as before.
I joined the side seams and pressed every seam, clipping the curves.
I try to source inexpensive fabrics at low prices, this piece of satin back crepe cost only a few pounds but it was only a small piece -just enough for a short sleeved jacket!
similarly the lace was expensive so I bought just a small piece. I do not want any of it wasted so it was important to get full use of it.
Its like when rationing was in place, nothing remotely useful was thrown away. I don't know about you but my income is very limited and I cannot afford to waste anything, or indeed spend very much in the first place! But I do like nice clothes and so I make my own.


Getting back to the jacket, I had already made the sleeves so it was just a question of setting them in. Use the gathering threads to gently ease them into the sleeve hole without making any obvious gathers.  Sounds tricky but so long as you take your time you will be ok.


I am finding it difficult to photograph black in the dark evenings so please excuse the quality of the photographs.


I am pleased with the way the lace shows on the shoulders and with the lace inserts in the sides, the sleeves add to the effect and I honestly think that there is enough lace on it now so I will not be using the other piece of lace trim . That can be saved for another project.

The next step was to sew the facings together at the shoulders and stitch them to the jacket front.



It is important to press the seam open before turning it the right side out, also clip the curves to make the seam lie flat

Press the edges flat, turning the seam ever so slightly to the inside.


 I will undersew the facing later.

Now, all I need to do is to join the remaining lining pieces together, turn up the hem and stitch the lining in place.
I do not usually take this long over making a garment, but as I said before I want it to last many years, besides which I am thoroughly enjoying making my unique evening jacket!

Until next time, happy sewing!
N B   I will be finishing this on monday evening and updating the blog. Hhhmmmm, what to make next??



It's monday, and I have had such a busy day! A funeral this  morning for somebody far too young, then Michael decided as the Christmas season is starting in his world of entertainment he really needed something Christmassy NOW! So. On top of everything else I had to make a tie and a bow tie with the promise of more to follow.
Oh, and I am shattered, I forgot to take the night time pill which switches my brain off at night so I did not sleep at all.
ok,enough excuses, back to the jacket.
Find your lining pieces and join them together, do not forget the shoulder darts.
You need to put a pleat up the back to allow for movement


So stitch the top and bottom of the pleat and tack the bit in between, press it to one side.

Stitch the other seams, clipping where there is any sort of a curve so it will lie flat.
press.
stitch the shoulder seams.
Right sides together pin the lining to the garment from bottom front all tne way around to the bootm front on tne other side, leave the hem for now.
press.


Pin the lining to the sleeve opening and baste (tack) in place by hand or machine
turn the hem up and stitch in place. Put the garment inside out on your dummy if you have one and tack the lining to the garment without pulling it anywhere.
When you aare satisfied, turn it right side out and put it on checking for any pulling anywhere. Adjust
your pinning if there is. Slip stitch the hemlining  in place making sure there are no stitches showing  on the right side.
press
Make up the sleeve linings  by stitching the underarm sea and running gathering stitches along the top. Turn the top edges in , pin to the sleeve lining at the armhole and stitch in place carefully by hand.




stitch it to the sleeve hem in the same way as the garment hem


This is the finished side view showing the lace trimming

 This is the front showing the shoulders, again trimmed with lace


And this is the completed jacket.  It just needs a final tidy up and another press and it is ready to go!

I hope that this was useful, do ask me any questions if something is not clear.

Thank you for reading this. Elsewhere on my blog you will find dresses, skirts, trousers as well as sewing room accessories,gifts, ties, mens shirts.......


Angela

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