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Tuesday, 19 May 2015

How I made a very simple NewLook lined shift dress

I am still making lots of clothes for my "birthday holiday", and with time running out they have to be quick to make.
I came across this NewLook pattern recently, and as I do like a shift dress decided this would be ideal for me to run up a couple of dresses with fairly quickly.

This white with a black stripe jersey was in my stash and I have been wanting to use it for ages. It is a bit see-through so it needed to be lined.I also had a piece of very fine lingerie fabric in my stash so it was ideal for the lining.
you might think that lining a dress is complicated, not so, it is only like putting facings in. Adding a cap sleeve makes it even easier.

With a stripe fabric like this it is important to match the stripes up exactly. You must pay attention to ensuring that they match exactly at the side and back seam and that there is a clear match along the front of the dress from the edge of the sleeve right accross to the other sleeve.  You should note however that as the sleeves are eased into the garment they will not line up perfectly once the easing is
being done.
Matching stripes starts at the cutting out stage. Pin the selvages together at frequent intervals all the way down the fabric carefully aligning the stripes. When it comes to the actual cutting out and sewing you will have to take great care that you keep the pattern matched by pinning and tacking carefully. Sometimes a bit of hand sewing is required.

make up the dress by stitching the back seam up to the poing where the zipper finishes and stitch in a zipper. You may find that your fabric stretches a little, especially this one which is a jersey, so pin and tack the zip in place first. It is important that the stripes match perfectly all the way up the back.
stitch  the darts, side and shoulder seams.
make up the lining in the same way, pressing the seam edges along the centre back where the zipper will go

Right sides together pin and tack the lining to the dress shell along the neck edge and machine in place. 
Press, clip the curve, turn right side out and press again.
stitch the armhole facing to the armhole shell Within the seam allowance.

You should now carefully hand stitch the lining to the zipper tape, and top stitch around the neck if you want to.

Right sides together stitch the lining to the sleeve along the bottom edge. Clip the curve and press

In one operation stitch the lining and sleeve underarm sleeve. 

Turn the sleeve right side out and treat as one piece of fabric from now on, inserting the sleeve into the armhole and overlocking the seam as normal.
finish the hems, give it a final press and there it is, done.
It honestly is very simple to make once you get the fitting right

This is the finished lined dress.

I made another one in a bright printed cotton, this time unlined

Then after that i lowered the pattern neckline , shortened the length and made this really simple sleeveless shell top!
I made both in one evening because I had made a toile previously and therefore I knew it would fit me without too many fitting sessions.

I hope that you will make this dress, I would appreciate feedback.

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