The fabric is a Pink Heavy textured wool blend coat fabric ,and can be viewed and ordered by clicking on this link
I also chose a very dark brown polyester lining fabric to contrast with the outer fabric. Minerva Crafts have a huge choice of linings and fabrics if you click on the Link above
You will also need a piece of Iron On woven interfacing, details of which can be found on the link here
Of course you also need matching thread, buttons and shoulder pads if you choose to use them. Sometimes I use them, sometimes I don't, but I always have a pair handy and try them out during fitting and make my decision then.
As I said, I have made this pattern before so in my case I did not need to make a muslin. What I did though was to try another one of the jackets on and viewed it critically for any fitting adjustments. The fabric I am using is slightly bulkier than the others so I decided to add extra width along the seams to make allowances for the extra thickness of the fabric.
I started by shrinking the fabric, pressing it and leaving it to dry before pinning on my pattern, leaving additional seam allowances at the sides and back.
As you can see the pattern has beautiful darts up the back and front which pull the shape in at the waist. This makes for a beautifully fitted jacket which is reminiscent of a 1940s style. I love it!
The pattern has a front which is cut in one piece and has a dart in it. I wanted the jacket to look different to my other one, so I cut out the lining and facing fabrics in muslin, tacked them to the back and tried it on. The fit and the look was exactly as I wanted so I went ahead and cut the front in two pieces, eliminating the dart as the princess seam provides all the shaping necessary.I added a bit extra at the side seam as this is a thick fabric.
Continue to make the front darts and then stitch the side and shoulder seams. Try the jacket on at this stage, both with and without shoulder pads although you do not have to make the decision to use then just yet.
The collar is easy to make. Iron on some of your woven interfacing to the lower collar, stitch together, trim the corners and turn the right way out. Baste the top edge together inside the seam line. I did some top stitching just over half an inch from the edges
Now that you have the body of the jacket made you then need to cut the lining out. The front facing is cut out in the main fabric and interfaced with the iron on woven interfacing. I also like to add a strip about 1 1/2" wide along the bottom edge of the jacket and the sleeve edges too. This helps to keep the shape and aids in turning up the hem, we will come to that later.
Between the facing and the front lining I like to add some decorative piping. This can be bought ready made but I prefer to make my own. I had a short length of bias binding in a bright pink leftover from another project, I pressed it open and folded it in half enclosing some piping cord in the centre. machine stitch it close to the fold.
Insert the piping in the seam allowance between the facing and the lining.Using your zipper foot stitch as close to the piping cord as possible.
I feel that it adds a really beautiful touch to the inside of a jacket or coat and as it takes little effort is well worth the time it takes.
When it comes to the back lining you need to build in extra ease room otherwise it could split when you stretch. To do this the pattern has pattern markings showing you exactly where to stitch to form pleats for wearing ease. Stitch along the marked lines and press the pleated section to one side.
Join the side seams and shoulder seams.
This is what the facing now looks like. We will deal with the sleeves shortly!
We were talking about the hem earlier. I interfaced the entire hem for just a bit more than the seam allowance. This gives a base upon which you can stitch the hem down, To do this use a loose herringbone stitch, catching only the interfacing not the front of the fabric stitch the hem loosely in place.
Clip the curves and trim the corners. Turn right sides out and press.
A word about shoulder pads.If you are using dry clean only fabric then these tailors shoulder pads really are the best. Otherwise use normal ones which are washable. Put the jacket on and insert the sleeve pad. Adjust it until it looks right and pin it in place. Stitch it loosely to the shoulder seam, and then catch it loosely to the sleeve seam. You may also need a sleeve roll but unless you really want a tailored look to your jacket I hardly ever use them, not for an everyday jacket anyway.
The sleeve must sit in place neatly with no puckering or gathers evident
Tackle the jacket hem in the same way. Make sure that the lining does not pull the jacket, the easiest way to do this is to turn up the lining hem so that the lining is the same length as the jacket and then push it up. This will allow plenty of wearing ease.
If you have a pattern which you love and which fits you well there is nothing wrong with making it up in different fabrics. I intend making the dress and jacket in a navy blue suiting soon.
I hope that you have enjoyed reading this post and that you are inspired to make one for yourself.
As a way if using up some of the spare fabric I decided to make a shopping tote bag. Bags are so useful don't you think.
I used some of my pink wool mix together with some left over curtain fabric and lined it with a piece of cream showerproof coat fabric which I found in my stash.
I used some cream webbing for handles , inserted a magnetic clasp -which was easy to fit - and made two covered buttons to decorate the front and back.
The pattern is from Simplicity
Everything I used is from MinervaCrafts.com and I wish to thank them for the fabulous fabrics.